A Visit to Godshill#

If you approach the chocolate box village of Godshill from the Whitwell Road, you’ll clearly see the church as you approach. But once you’re in the tourist heart of the village, the Church disappers from view.

Unless you’re particularly looking out for it, you’re also unlikely to notice the old road south, Sheepwash Lane. This minor road creeps out of the very heart of the village, leading down to the practically named Sheepwash Farm, and to an area that used to be referred to as “Devil’s Acre”, although you won’t see that name mentioned on any map.

The story most often told about the origins of the Church, and how Godshill got its name, goes something like this.

Back in the seventh century, as the old inhabitants of the island were converted to Christianity, the local folk had to decide where their church should be. There had been an old pagan site on top of a nearby hill. If the church were built there, then it would certainly command the landscape; but, as with all these things, there was a but: there was nothing on top of the hill from which you could build a church; so everything that was required would have to be transported up there. By hand. So it would be much more, you might say, “convenient” to build the church down here, on the flat, rather than up there, on the hill.

And so it was, that one fine day, the folk set to, collecting the stones to lay out the foundations.

But when they returned the next morning, their work had been undone… their first attempt at laying the foundations had vanished.

They looked around the field, and… nothing…

No tools, no marker posts, no stones for the foundations.

They searched around the site, then a bit further out, and then…

No? Surely not? It couldn’t be?

Everything that had been in the meadow had been moved to the top of the hill.

So everyone gathered together and rolled the stones back down the hill, and set about building the foundations again.

The next day they came back, and… nothing. They searched around, and about, and… just check the hill: and there again, everything, as it had been, down there, but now, up here.

So they set to and carried everything back down the hill, again, and started again, again.

This was getting to be more than a joke, so a guard was set. As night fell, some say they saw the stones start to jiggle, and roll, and sway, and dance – and it really was as if they were dancing – they danced their way right up the hill. Some say that it was the doing of the fairy folk, come to feast, and finding their meeting space had been converted to a building site, who had rolled and carried and carried and rolled the stones out of their place, and up the hill to another place. Others say it the Devil’s work. Others still that it must have been a miracle, and God’s doing. But whatever happened, whoever’s story you believed, be in no doubt: those stones made their way back up to the top of the hill.

The next morning, as folk turned up to continue working on the foundations — what, again? Everything’s moved, again? — and another meeting was held. And the story was told by those who’d seen the stones moving; but no way had they’d tried to stop them.

So it seemed as if someone, or something, or even the very Church itself, didn’t want the Church to be down here, but instead wanted it to be up there.

And so it was that the Church was built on top of the hill, God’s hill; and the original site, where the Church refused to be built, came to be known as Devil’s Acre. Now, whether that’s because the Devil didn’t like the idea of a Church there, or whether God wanted to keep his Church away from there, or God wanted his Church up there, who can say? But there was surely some magic afoot that night the stones were seen dancing to Godshill.

Island Tellings…#

The pseudonymous Abraham Elder’s Tales and Legends of the Isle of Wight, first published in 1839, takes the form of a road trip around the island by the author and his sidekick, Mr Winterblossom, an antiquary well versed in the lore of the island and related by him to the author, as well as by others encountered aling the way, in the course of their journey.

The tale of how the church at Godshill came to built be on top of the hill there is not included in the book, but an account of that story was published by the author in Bentley’s Miscellany Vol. VI., p255-262, 1839, in an article entitled Legends of the Isle of Wight, with the adventures of the author in search of them, by Abraham Elder, Esq., starting at page 253.

Barber’s Picturesque Illustrations of the Isle of Wight, published in 1850, describes how “[r]ustic tradition tells that a more lowly spot was first selected for the erection of the church; but that the materials employed for that purpose, day by day, being regularly removed by invisible agents to the summit of the hill during the night, the workmen at length wisely determined to save themselves further unnecessary trouble, and built the church where some supernatural authority so plainly intimated that it must be erected.

A slightly more religious telling is provided in “The Isle of Wight” by George Clinch, published in 1908, quoting an “ancient legend which is thus given in a local guide-book”:

The people of this village, having long lived in pagan darkness, were at length visited by a holy man who came and lived among them. He told the wondrous story of Divine self-sacrifice, and taught the Catholic religion of love and mercy. This so touched the hearts of the people that they cast down their blood-stained altars and acknowledged the true God.

Then cried the elders of the village: “We will build a temple to His honour, where we and our children’s children may worship, and by which generations yet unborn may know how the Saxon reverenced God.”

They chose, therefore, a level place, and all day long they wrought and toiled, and when night came they rested from their labours. But on the morrow, when borne during the night by invisible hands to the top of a round knoll.

When the people saw this marvellous sight they cried with one voice: “Let us build now on the top of the hill, for this must be the will of God,” and from that time the church and village have been known as Godshill in memory of this great deed.

Clinch goes on to describe how [t]his legend, which may have been invented in explanation of a rather remarkable name, belongs to a class of which numerous examples still linger in England”:

Usually one finds them in places where the parish church stands at a considerable distance from the village, and, generally, they are to the effect that the building erected in or near the village during the day-time was conveyed by evil influences to a remote situation at night. The Godshill legend is a variant of this group.

And a Poetic Telling…#

In Legends and Lays of the Wight first published in 1912, Percy G. Stone lifts the summary of the legend of Godshill from Barber’s Picturesque Illustrations of the Isle of Wight, before retelling the tale more colourfully in verse:

They had gathered them in from the countryside round
To settle a serious matter.
The question was this: They sore needed a church
But they seemed very like to be left in the lurch,
And the whole thing to finish in chatter.

Shall we build it up there on the top of the down,
Or here in the valley below?
As at all parish meetings, a number said Aye
The hill is the spot for it’s open and high,
While the rest called them fools, and said No.

And while they thus argued for valley or hill
In the weary parochial way.
The Devil drew near, in the guise of a Friar
— The Devil is always a plausible liar —
And put in his word for the Nay.

‘Why burden yourself with the onerous task
Of building up there on the height?
The carriage of stone will entail a sad toil,
So listen to me, honest sons of the soil.
Below’s the most practical site.’

‘The holy monk’s right,’ shouted those who agreed
To the vale scheme. Beelzebub lied.
As he always can do, with such hearty good will
That most of the folk who’d declared for the hill
Turned about and came over his side.

Satan reckoned, if tucked away snug out of sight,
‘Twould be more out of mind of the Saints.’
Besides, with the muddy and waltorish ways,
They would sure be more likely to curse than to praise —
Thus their prayers would get choked with complaints.

St. Boniface, passing, soon saw what was on,
So put in his vote for the hill.
Don’t listen to fossils like him —
Slaves to orthodox precedent, crotchet and whim —
Quoth Satan, ‘Tis clear, friends, his knowledge is nil.’

So to it they went with a hearty good will.’
Said the Saint, ‘It is just as I feared:
Though the fools wouldn’t listen to what I’d to say,
Beelzebub shan’t have it all his own way’
And he thoughtfully pulled at his beard.

So the masons hewed stones and then set them in place,
Chipping hard till the daylight had sped.
Then gathering their tools, with a sigh of content
At the work they had done, gaily homewards they went
To supper, and after to bed.

Next morning betimes they arose with the lark
And set forth to work with a will.
But lo! when they got there, ‘twas level with ground.
— Not a sign of a stone to be anywhere found
They were all laid atop of the hill.

‘Here, bother it all!’ the head mason exclaimed
‘Who’s been playing the fool with this job?’
‘If I catch him, mark well’ — and he doubled his fist,
With a look that I wouldn’t for money have missed,
“I’ll trounce him right soundly begob!”

His comrades, sore puzzled, looked up and looked down,
Then exclaimed with unanimous voice
— They knew nothing about it so strike ‘em all dead
As after their suppers they went straight to bed,
And had naturally stayed there, for choice.

So it’s up to the top of the hill they must toil
And fetch all those stones down again.
While they swore at the fool who had played them the trick
— Of course the first person they thought of was Nick —
And given them toiling in vain.

Once again in their places the pieces secured,
They mortared them surely and true.
But when morning dawn lightened, the stones as before
— Whereat the whole company lustily swore
Were ranged on the hill-top anew.

Said the stout master mason, a-scratching his head,
‘This is getting too much of a jest;
Let alone double toil, it will never get done:
‘Tis the job of a lifetime for every one:
From our labour we never shall rest.’

When the very next morning the same thing occurred.
‘Stop, mates : let it be. The whole thing’s
A puzzle too tough for my nob;
The Building Committee must settle this job:
It’s a bit too perplexing for me.’

So they called them together and met once again
And argued it worse than before.
They argued it up and they argued it down,
Like the council elect of a small county town,
Till they argued their very throats sore.

Then Boniface Saint he laughed low in his beard:
“‘Tis Isle of Wight calves that you be.
Are your heads then so thick that you can’t understand
When from Heaven you’re graciously sent a command —
It ‘s a miracle, easy to see.”

‘You scorned the advice of a credited saint’
— Here his stature a full cubit rose —
‘Who was never convicted of being a liar,
And hung on the words of this sham shaven friar,
Who led all you fools by the nose.’

“A friar forsooth! ‘Neath his cowl and his frock
Horns and hooves I can clearly perceive.
— This has been one of your narrowest shaves ±
Come hither, Beelzebub, subtlest of knaves,
And your recompense duly receive.”

Saint Boniface here gripped him tight by the neck,
“With, None of your sly monkey tricks”
Then, catching him fair with the point of his toe,
He lifted the Devil a furlong or so
With a couple of right lusty kicks.

Whereat the parishioners fell on their knees
And lauded the Saint to the sky.
So Boniface blessed them in orthodox way.
Then, looking around him, proceeded to say,
‘This humility’s mostly my eye.

‘Next time don’t be led by a plausible rogue
Unknown to the Parish and you
Though I’ve heard it, my friends, reprehensibly said
By Christians, alas! who are easily led,
We must render the Devil his due.

‘Avoid mendicant friars, and take this advice
I tender you ere I depart:
Don’t argue it more. Work away with a will
At building your church on the top of the hill,
Every man of you bearing his part.’

‘We assure you, good Saint, we will do as you say.
But, ere that you bid us adieu,
Grant this favour benign, that our newly-built church
— By Beelzebub’s guile nearly left in the lurch —
May be titled in honour of you.’

“Though I’m flattered, the honour I needs must decline
— Besides I’m bespoken elsewhere
When everything’s finished, to carving and paint,
Let your church be invoked in the name of each saint
By whom you’re accustomed to swear.”

All humbly they cried, ‘It shall be as you wish.
Your Saintship; we’11 work with a will
And the site where the building in future will stand,
According to God’s and your saintly command,
Shall be known by the name of GODSHILL.’

The church there to-day on the top of the mound
Lifts its pinnacled Tower to sky
While a mile to the South Devil’s Acre is found
— Which maids in the dark are afraid to pass round —
Two proofs to you Legends don’t lie.

Isle of Wight calves: a local expression for a dull-witted man.

A Warning to Lewd Women#

Over the years, the church was rebuilt - the current church was perhaps started in the early 1400s, with the top part of the tower being rebuilt in the 16th century and later repaired following a lightning strike of 1778 - and the Church became a regular stopping off point for tourists and visitors alike, though perhaps today’s visitors prefer the tea rooms and the chocolate shop and the model village to the Church.

If you do go up to the Church, and look on the noticeboards, you’re as likely as not to see a poster for a flower festival, or a jumble sale, perhaps, as well as sundry other church notices.

But for one visitor, John Hassell, writing in volume two of his two volume work, Tour of the Isle of Wight, published in 1790, and which you can find nowadays via Google Books, there was something rather more unusual posted there. After noting damage to two of the gable ends resulting from the 1178 lightning strike, Hassell recounts his experience of entering the Church (p.88): [u]pon our entering the porch we observed abstracts from several acts of parliament fixed against the door, and among them one that excited both our curiosity and risibility;

— it was from an act made in the seventh of James the First, which enacts, that every female who unfortunately intrudes on the parish a second illegitimate child, shall be liable to imprisonment and hard labour in Bridewell for six months.

Now as the number of females on this island much exceeds that of the males; and as, from the mild temperature of the climate, circumstances frequently arise among the lower ranks that render the intention of this act of no effect; we could not help thinking this public exhibition of the abstract as rather a rigorous exertion of Justice.

We found it was not very unusual here for the young men, from the deficiency of numbers just spoken of, to pay their devoirs to more than one young woman at a time; and as it is not possible for him legally to unite himself to all of them, he generally bestows his hand on her who had first presented him with a pledge of their love.

This, however, is seldom done till the approach of a second pledge from the same person renders such an act of compassion needful, in order to avoid the consequences of the tremendous anathema fixed on the church door.

A little digging turns up the act that Hassell was perhaps referring to, although in actual terms it seems far more draconian even than Hassell decscribed:

Volume VII

Fourth session of Parliament, February 9th, 1609 CAP.IV A act for the due execution of divers laws and statutes heretofore made against rogues, vagabonds and sturdy beggars and other lewd and idle persons.

Paragraph VII. And because great charge ariseth upon many places within this realm by reason of bastardy besides the great dishonour of Almighty God, be it therefore enacted by the authority aforesaid. That every lewd Woman, which after this present session of parliament shall have any bastard which may be chargeable to the parish, the justices of peace shall commit such lewd woman to the house of correction, there to be punished and set on work, during the term of one whole year ; (2) and if she shall estsoons offend again. That then to be committed to the said house of correction as aforesaid, and there to remain until she can put in good sureties for her good behaviour, not to offend so again.

The act also goes on in more general terms:

Paragraph VIII. And for that many wilful people finding that they having children, have some hope to have relief from the parish wherein they dwell and being able to labour and thereby to relieve themselves and their families do nevertheless run away out of their parishes and leave a remedy for their families upon the parish; (2) for remedy whereof, be it further enacted by this present parliament, and the authority of the same, That all such persons so running away shall be taken and deemed to be incorrigible rogues, and endure the pain of incorrigible rogues; 3) and if either such man or woman being able to work, and shall threaten to run away and leave their families as aforesaid, the same being proved by two sufficient witnesses upon oath before two justices of peace in that division ; that then the said persons so threatening shall by the said justices of peace be sent to the house of correction (unless he or she can put in sufficient sureties for the discharge of the parish) there to be dealt with and detained as a sturdy and wandring rogue, and to be delivered at the said assembly or meeting, or at the quarter-sessions, and not otherwise.

It is also worth noting that the earlier paragraph II required the construction of a house of correction in each county, where not already available, by justices of the peace:

Paragraph II
That before the feast of Saint Michael the archangel which shall be in the year of our Lord Cod one thousand six hundred and eleven there shall be erected, built or otherwise provided, within every county of this realm of England and Wales where there is not one house of correction already built, purchased, provided or continued, one or more fit and convenient house or houses of correction, with convenient backside thereunto adjoining, together with mills, turns, cards and suchlike necessary implements, to set the said rogues or such other idle persons on work; the same houses to be built, erected or provided in some convenient place or town in every county : (2) which houses shall be purchased, conveyed or assured unto such person or persons as by the justices of peace or the more part of them, in their quarter sessions of the peace to be holden within every county of this realm of England and Wales, upon trust, to the intent the same shall be used and imployed for the keeping, correcting and letting to work of the said rogues, vagabonds, sturdy beggars and other idle and disorderly persons.

For any counties not meeting the requirement, a financial penalty would ensue:

Paragraph III. And be it further enacted by the authority aforesaid, That if the said house so to be erected, purchased or provided, shall not be erected, built or otherwise provided before the feast of Saint Michael the archangel, which shall be in the year one thousand fix hundred and eleven next ensuing the last day of this present session parliament. That then every justice of peace within every county of this realm of England and Wales where such house and backside shall not be erected or provided, shall forfeit for his said neglect, five pounds of lawful English money; 2) the one moiety thereof to be unto him or them that will sue for the same by action of debt, bill, plaint or information; in which suit no protection, essoin or wager of law shall be admitted ; and the other moiety thereof to be employed and bestowed towards the creating, building, procuring or providing the said house and backside, and such necessary implements as aforesaid.

But what of Bridewell, as mentioned by Hassell?

TO DO

https://www.londonlives.org/static/Bridewell.jsp Bridewell Prison and Hospital was established in a former royal palace in 1553 with two purposes: the punishment of the disorderly poor and housing of homeless children in the City of London. Located on the banks of the Fleet River in the City, it was both the first house of correction in the country and a major charitable institution (reflecting the early modern definition of a “hospital”). Its records provide valuable evidence of both petty crime and pauper apprenticeships in the eighteenth century.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridewell_Palace Bridewell Palace in London was built as a residence of King Henry VIII and was one of his homes early in his reign for eight years. Given to the City of London Corporation by his son King Edward VI for use as an orphanage and place of correction for wayward women

See also: _missed_opportunities_pre_1830.md for more on Madam Cresswell

For the traditional author of written works, the story, as much as the published work, whether a printed book, a digital e-book, an audio book or even just an extract in a Sunday supplement, is often something to be protected, something that remains under the ownership of the author to license and “perform” as they see fit.

For the traditional storyteller, the product is the performance. The stories are passed on, free to be retold by those who heard them, under common, public ownership. Many stories told by traditional storytellers do get written down, at some point, of course. And more stories told by storytellers may have been “picked up” from written down story collections.

For the traditional bookseller, it helps to have a physical product to sell, rather than just an event.

two different ways. The first way is a “literary” way, a reprinting of two long since out of copyright tales originally published in the late 1830s by a certain Mr Abraham Elder (a brief appendix starts to explore just who who the real person behind that pen name really was). Elder’s tales are presented as if they were collected, but they owe as much, if not more, to the creative imagination of the teller as the presumed oral tales they claim to retell. The second way is my way, at least for now, based on a “pre-transcript” of tales I have told as part of the Island Tales set presented by ‘Tis Tales at Ventnor Fringe, and elsewhere. These retellings are a window into some of the homework that goes in as I try to find my own way through a story.